Ride a Stagecoach at the Historic Hat Creek Ranch
Hat Creek Ranch was an 1860’s roadhouse that catered to miners, pack-train operators, stagecoaches and wagon trains right up until 1916 when the automobile was first introduced to the Cariboo. The event that inspired founder Donald McLean to build the ranch was the Cariboo Gold Rush - the most famous of the gold rushes in British Columbia.
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Although the first gold discovery was made in 1859 at Horsefly Creek, followed by more strikes at Keithley Creek and Antler Horns Lake in 1860, the actual rush did not begin until 1861, when these discoveries were widely publicized. By 1862, following the strikes at Williams Creek, the rush was in full swing. Several towns sprung up, the most famous being Barkerville, now preserved as a heritage site and tourist attraction. Other important towns of the Cariboo gold rush era were Keithley Creek, Quesnel Forks or simply "the Forks", Antler, Richfield, Quesnellemouthe (which would later be shortened to Quesnel), Horsefly and, around the site of the Hudson's Bay Company's fort of the same name, Alexandria.
It was the creation of the Cariboo Road (also called the Cariboo Wagon Road, the Great North Road or the Queen's Highway) that gave birth to such roadhouses as the Hat Creek Ranch. The project, initiated in 1860 by the colonial Governor of British Columbia, James Douglas, was a feat of engineering stretching from Fort Yale to Barkerville through the extremely hazardous canyon territory in the Interior of B.C. It replaced the dangerous "mule trail" – a rough-hewn cliff-side trail wide enough only for one mule.
The colonial government employed locals as well as a detachment of the Royal Engineers ("sappers") who undertook amazing engineering feats including construction of toll bridges including the (original) Alexandra Suspension Bridge of 1863. Building the road cost nearly one and a quarter million dollars, and left a standing debt of £112,780 after its completion.
Scottish fur trader and explorer Donald McLean (1805-1864) founded the ranch in order to cash in on the traffic from the gold rush trail. He married Sophia Grant (whose father was HBC employee Peter Grant from the Kamloops and mother was from the Chaudieres/ Flathead nation in what is now the Spokane area tribe) and together they produced seven children Donald already had five other children from two previous marriages.
The chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company assigned to the Thompson’s River Post (now Kamloops) was in charge of keeping law and order in the area around Fort Alexandria since there was no police force at the time.
In 1849, McLean led a 16-man posse on a hunt to pursue a Chilcotin brave named Tlel who killed a Hudson Bay employee. McLean and his posse burst through the door of Tlel’s cabin and killed a man claiming to be Tlel’s uncle who was helping Tlel elude capture, and was also believed to be involved in the murder.
During the Chilcotin War of 1864, he was asked to be second in command of an expedition charged with hunting Chilcotin leader Klattasine but was killed during while scouting for the expedition. Upon his death it was discovered that McLean wore a breast plate beneath his shirt which explained how he managed to live as long as he did with so many enemies.
Despite the fact Donald McLead was on the side of the law, three of McLean’s sons chose to live outside the law forming the Wild McLean Gang and unleashing a campaign of terror on the area.
It was the creation of the Cariboo Road (also called the Cariboo Wagon Road, the Great North Road or the Queen's Highway) that gave birth to such roadhouses as the Hat Creek Ranch. The project, initiated in 1860 by the colonial Governor of British Columbia, James Douglas, was a feat of engineering stretching from Fort Yale to Barkerville through the extremely hazardous canyon territory in the Interior of B.C. It replaced the dangerous "mule trail" – a rough-hewn cliff-side trail wide enough only for one mule.
The colonial government employed locals as well as a detachment of the Royal Engineers ("sappers") who undertook amazing engineering feats including construction of toll bridges including the (original) Alexandra Suspension Bridge of 1863. Building the road cost nearly one and a quarter million dollars, and left a standing debt of £112,780 after its completion.
Scottish fur trader and explorer Donald McLean (1805-1864) founded the ranch in order to cash in on the traffic from the gold rush trail. He married Sophia Grant (whose father was HBC employee Peter Grant from the Kamloops and mother was from the Chaudieres/ Flathead nation in what is now the Spokane area tribe) and together they produced seven children Donald already had five other children from two previous marriages.
The chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company assigned to the Thompson’s River Post (now Kamloops) was in charge of keeping law and order in the area around Fort Alexandria since there was no police force at the time.
In 1849, McLean led a 16-man posse on a hunt to pursue a Chilcotin brave named Tlel who killed a Hudson Bay employee. McLean and his posse burst through the door of Tlel’s cabin and killed a man claiming to be Tlel’s uncle who was helping Tlel elude capture, and was also believed to be involved in the murder.
During the Chilcotin War of 1864, he was asked to be second in command of an expedition charged with hunting Chilcotin leader Klattasine but was killed during while scouting for the expedition. Upon his death it was discovered that McLean wore a breast plate beneath his shirt which explained how he managed to live as long as he did with so many enemies.
Despite the fact Donald McLead was on the side of the law, three of McLean’s sons chose to live outside the law forming the Wild McLean Gang and unleashing a campaign of terror on the area.
The Wild McLean Gang
The McLean gang consisted of three of Donald McLean’s sons. The eldest was Allen at 25, followed by Charles, 17 and Archie, 15. They were joined by 17-year-old Alex Hare, the Métis son of a local rancher. Charlie bit off the nose of a native boy during an argument and the gang beat a Chinese man near Savona nearly to death. They made habitual demands of local ranchers for food and their escalating thefts were becoming more of a real danger to the point where doors were being locked from Kamloops all down the Nicola Valley.
The beginning of the end for the gang occurred in early December1879, when local rancher William Palmer was out on the Nicola Wagon Road looking for his missing horse and across all four of boys.He retreated and reported the crime to Constable Ussher, the B.C. policeman assigned to the Kamloops district. Ussher led a small posse to the McLean camp where the ensuing showdown left Ussher dead – stabbed by Alex Hare then shot in the head by Archie McLean.
The death of the popular frontier lawman inspired a larger and better armed posse to form. Intent on bringing the McLeans to justice, they tracked down the boys (with a lead they received from a guy from the Douglas Lake band) at a cabin on Douglas Lake where they were attending to Allen’s wounds and formulating a new plan. Surrounded by local ranchers, cowboys and the posse, the gang returned their calls to surrender with bursts of gunfire. After a few unsuccessful attempts by the posse to end the standoff, Allen McLean admitted defeat for himself and the gang. The gang was given a preliminary hearing in Kamloops before making the long cold journey to New Westminster Provincial Jail where they were admitted on Christmas day of 1879. Found guilty at their second trial, (the first was overturned on a technicality), the boys were simultaneously hanged to die on January 31, 1881 on a custom-made four-man gallows.
The beginning of the end for the gang occurred in early December1879, when local rancher William Palmer was out on the Nicola Wagon Road looking for his missing horse and across all four of boys.He retreated and reported the crime to Constable Ussher, the B.C. policeman assigned to the Kamloops district. Ussher led a small posse to the McLean camp where the ensuing showdown left Ussher dead – stabbed by Alex Hare then shot in the head by Archie McLean.
The death of the popular frontier lawman inspired a larger and better armed posse to form. Intent on bringing the McLeans to justice, they tracked down the boys (with a lead they received from a guy from the Douglas Lake band) at a cabin on Douglas Lake where they were attending to Allen’s wounds and formulating a new plan. Surrounded by local ranchers, cowboys and the posse, the gang returned their calls to surrender with bursts of gunfire. After a few unsuccessful attempts by the posse to end the standoff, Allen McLean admitted defeat for himself and the gang. The gang was given a preliminary hearing in Kamloops before making the long cold journey to New Westminster Provincial Jail where they were admitted on Christmas day of 1879. Found guilty at their second trial, (the first was overturned on a technicality), the boys were simultaneously hanged to die on January 31, 1881 on a custom-made four-man gallows.
Begin your visit in the old guest house turned museum where a guide in period costume will give you a guided tour and educate you on the history of the ranch. The guest rooms are set up with furniture and items from the late 1800’s to early 1900’s making you feel as though you stepped back in time. The guesthouse includes a bar with a piano where the men (women were not allowed) liked to gamble and drink and a kitchen where Chinese cooks were hired to cook western food. In fact, one of the Chinese cooks was accused of murdering a young girl. Knowing he would be found guilty whether he did it or not, he hung himself. His ghost and the ghost of the little girl are said to still haunt the place.
Next be sure to visit the log cabin where Donald McLean lived with his family. Pictures of them adorn the walls. After that, tour the grounds on a stagecoach. Whether you ride inside or up on the roof, it is an experience that you will not soon forget. The driver, who has worked at the ranch for most of his life, likes to demonstrate how fast the coach can move.
If you are hungry be sure to stop into the entrance building for a bite to eat and an ice cream then head upstairs to check out the gift shop. Then end your visit at the Native Interpretation Center manned with native guides from the Bonaparte Indian Band dressed in traditional clothing. The Bonaparte Indian Band or St'uxwtéws or Stucwtewsemc’s (try to pronounce that), is located west of Cache Creek on about 1878 hectares of land. With nearly 800 members, they are a member band of the Shuswap National Tribal Council of the Secwepmec (Shuswap) people.
Tours start in the Pithouse or Kekuli. Built half above ground and half below, this lodge was used to accommodate 25-30 family members from grandparents to grandchildren from late fall until spring. The site also includes a Sweat Lodge. Used bymany natives as a place for naturally cleansing the body and spirit, the lodge is constructed of red and yellow willow branches shaped to form a dome, and then covered with fur boughs or deer hides. Volcanic rocks were gathered from the surrounding area and heated to extreme temperatures.
Amongst the other displays are an assortment of teepees, food drying racks and a tanning post. Unlike the white man, who would tan the hides of their misbehaving children, the Natives tanned animal hides for use as clothing and shelter. Tanning is the process of making leather from the skins of animals so they do not easily decompose. It involves a process which permanently alters the protein structure of skin. Tanning can be performed with either vegetable or mineral methods. Before tanning, the skins are un-haired, degreased, desalted and soaked in water over a period of 6 hours to 2 days. As guests leave, they are given a small gift – a satchel of sagebrush, which is used in healing rituals such as smudging.
Next be sure to visit the log cabin where Donald McLean lived with his family. Pictures of them adorn the walls. After that, tour the grounds on a stagecoach. Whether you ride inside or up on the roof, it is an experience that you will not soon forget. The driver, who has worked at the ranch for most of his life, likes to demonstrate how fast the coach can move.
If you are hungry be sure to stop into the entrance building for a bite to eat and an ice cream then head upstairs to check out the gift shop. Then end your visit at the Native Interpretation Center manned with native guides from the Bonaparte Indian Band dressed in traditional clothing. The Bonaparte Indian Band or St'uxwtéws or Stucwtewsemc’s (try to pronounce that), is located west of Cache Creek on about 1878 hectares of land. With nearly 800 members, they are a member band of the Shuswap National Tribal Council of the Secwepmec (Shuswap) people.
Tours start in the Pithouse or Kekuli. Built half above ground and half below, this lodge was used to accommodate 25-30 family members from grandparents to grandchildren from late fall until spring. The site also includes a Sweat Lodge. Used bymany natives as a place for naturally cleansing the body and spirit, the lodge is constructed of red and yellow willow branches shaped to form a dome, and then covered with fur boughs or deer hides. Volcanic rocks were gathered from the surrounding area and heated to extreme temperatures.
Amongst the other displays are an assortment of teepees, food drying racks and a tanning post. Unlike the white man, who would tan the hides of their misbehaving children, the Natives tanned animal hides for use as clothing and shelter. Tanning is the process of making leather from the skins of animals so they do not easily decompose. It involves a process which permanently alters the protein structure of skin. Tanning can be performed with either vegetable or mineral methods. Before tanning, the skins are un-haired, degreased, desalted and soaked in water over a period of 6 hours to 2 days. As guests leave, they are given a small gift – a satchel of sagebrush, which is used in healing rituals such as smudging.
HOW TO GET THERE...
The Historic Hat Creek Ranch is at the junction of Highway 97 and 99, 11 km north of Cache Creek BC, CANADA. www.hatcreekranch.com Phone: 1-800-782-0922 |